In Grand Canyon, the Royal Arch Creek loop offers a chance to experience a quiet corner of the South Rim. Beginning and ending at the South Bass trail head, the loop is approximately 35 miles long and is best described as a route/trail, rather than a maintained trail.
This multi-day trek is considered difficult for most hikers. In places, the route disappears on slickrock. During the spring of 2008, two experienced Canyon hikers from Utah became lost on this loop and required a rescue after 5 days being lost. The GPS tracks should be a big help.
Note that this trail head is often inaccessible in winter if there is snow on the ground or if heavy rain has fallen. Over 20 miles of dirt road must be driven to reach the trail head, some of which becomes an unnavigable gumbo infamous for trapping even jacked-up 4x4s.
Going counter-clockwise on the loop, the South Bass Trail (elevation 6,650 feet) descends Bass Canyon, then traverses the Tonto Trail west to Toltec Beach at the Colorado River. A short side-hike to Elves Chasm (the mouth of Royal Arch Creek) is a must. The route then climbs back up to the Tonto platform near Royal Arch Creek, then follows this tributary canyon upstream. Where Royal Arch Creek cuts into the Esplanade (Supai Formation), the route leaves the creek and veers east several miles on the relatively flat Esplanade back to the Bass Trail, then up two miles to return to the trail head. Three to four or more nights are necessary to complete the Royal Arch loop. Some of these miles pass slowly..
As told in a book I helped write (with my co-author Tom Myers), "Grand Obsession: Harvey Butchart and the Exploration of Grand Canyon," Northern Arizona University math professor Harvey Butchart made a significant discovery along this route in 1959 back when this side canyon was unknown: Royal Arch, the lovely natural bridge that gives this loop its name.
There are actually two main attractions on this hike, Royal Arch and Elves Chasm. Both are beauty spots located in Royal Arch Creek not far from the river, but they are separated by a 7-8 mile detour hike that includes a 20’ climb (or rappel if descending). A 160-foot drop in the bed of Royal Arch Creek prevents easy access between the two.
I recommend doing the loop counter-clockwise, for two reasons: First, the stretch between the Bass trailhead and Toltec Beach is 18 miles long with zero reliable water. In times of wet weather, pothole water could be available along this stretch, but if it hasn't rained for more than two days, you'll have to tote all your H20 - not an easy task.
I carried a little over 2.5 gallons from the rim, which got me through two full days of backpacking and one night of dry camping. The substantial weight slowed progress, but at least it was all downhill. Not that that makes it easy or even safe - be sure to carry trekking poles to alleviate the extra-heavy pounding on joints.
If you decide to do the loop clockwise, it would mean facing the 18 dry miles with a long, steep uphill hike out the Bass Trail at the very end. By contrast, doing the loop counter-clockwise means you’ll be ending those 18 dry miles with a gradual descent to the Colorado River. And, you'll have available water at the last night’s camp (pot holes in upper Royal Arch Creek) and less elevation to gain in order to reach the rim on your final day.
I did this trip during a relatively cool October. Doing the 18-mile stretch between the South Bass trail head and Toltec Beach in warm weather would be dangerous, because dehydration would be tough to avoid.
The other reason for going counter-clockwise has to do with the 20-foot climb/rappel along the way, just above the Colorado near Royal Arch Creek. When I reached this cliff, there was a knotted rope anchored in place. It made climbing up a snap, as it worked well as a hand line and I didn’t need a climbing harness. Although one wouldn’t want to depend on this rope always being there or in safe condition, a competent climber could climb this cliff without it, and then rig a rope for any less-experienced members of the party.
If one were coming down this cliff instead of going up, it would make it a sure thing to rig a safe rappel, but it’s also more daunting from a psychological perspective, because the exposure can be unsettling for some. By going up, rather than down the cliff, all the holds are visible and it’s also much less intimidating to have the exposed drop behind and below you.
Note that the Park Service recommends doing this loop clockwise so that hikers must descend the cliff and protect themselves by anchoring a rappel. This is the way to go if climbing experience is a worry.
If so, you'll have to take your chances going east into the 18 dry miles. One lady I met was camped where the Tonto and Bass Trails meet, in Bass Canyon. She had sent her son to the Colorado, over two miles and 1,200 feet below, to fetch water for camp and hiking out the next day. That's one way to do it.
Returning to the counter-clockwise loop, after getting past the cliff, you hike southwesterly on the Tonto platform for three gradual uphill-and-then-downhill miles toward Royal Arch Creek, and then descend rapidly to the creek bed. Here you must go 1 mile downsteam to reach a reliable spring and then Royal Arch. There's some rock-hopping involved and a few dry falls to negotiate. Royal Arch makes a fine camp. This is the largest natural bridge in Grand Canyon, discovered by Canyon explorer Harvey Butchart in 1959. Butchart also broke his heel here in 1968 while on a route-finding trek, and required a helicopter rescue. The chopper landed atop Royal Arch, the only available flat spot near the creek bed.
The route returns from Royal Arch the same way you came, passes the point where you earlier descended into Royal Arch Creek from above, and then continues to follow the rocky bed of Royal Arch Creek several miles upstream. Eventually you reach a set of pot holes in the Supai Formation, smooth bowls in the bed of the creek that have near-permanent water (I found plenty during a prolonged dry spell of over 60 days). This spot makes a good place to camp.
From here, the route follows the bed of Royal Arch Creek upstream until nearing Montezuma Point, where it climbs out of the Supai and heads east past Montezuma, Toltec and Chemehuevi Points. It's relatively easy walking, although there is some rough up-and-down across talus and steep landslides, but soon the route meets the Bass Trail at the junction you passed several days earlier. Head uphill on the Bass Trail for the final climb back to the parking lot. And thence to the nearest cheeseburger and cold beer.
Position Format:
Datum:
Tracks
Rac track01 - South Bass trail head to pot holes
Distance: 31.10 mi
Points: 500
Calories: none
Total Time: none
Speed: 0.0 mph
Pace: 0:00 / mi
Active Time: none
Speed: 0.0 mph
Pace: 0:00 / mi
Rac-track02 - Pot holes to South Bass trail head
Distance: 9.72 mi
Points: 500
Calories: none
Total Time: none
Speed: 0.0 mph
Pace: 0:00 / mi
Active Time: none
Speed: 0.0 mph
Pace: 0:00 / mi
Points of Interest
Rac001- South Bass trail head
Location: 36.183056, -112.374687
South Bass trailhead, where the drive ends and the hiking begins. There is a good view of Mt. Huethawali and the esplanade from here.
Rac002 - Esplanade loop junction
Location: 36.192795, -112.373940
This is the junction on the Esplanade that connects the loop. This is where you either keep going north on the South Bass Trail, or turn west to go toward Royal Arch.
Rac003 - Descent from Esplanade into Bass Canyon
Location: 36.203015, -112.373639
This is where the South Bass Trail begins descending the Supai Formation.
Rac004 - Bass Trail/Tonto Trail junction
Location: 36.217492, -112.355989
This is just above the junction of the South Bass Trail and the Tonto Trail. Look for cairns marking the Tonto Trail as it ascends gradually out of Bass Canyon.
Rac005 - Campsite #1
Location: 36.231598, -112.348668
This is my first night's camp. Very good views of the Colorado River, Tyndall Dome, the North Rim, and the Grand Canyon looking up-and-downstream. No water here, but there are flat spots for camping.
Rac006 - Copper Canyon
Location: 36.227902, -112.377622
This is the bottom of Copper Canyon where the Tonto Trail crosses it. No water here in dry times, but it should collect in pot holes during times of wetter weather. Camping is possible here.
Rac007 - Nice view of the river!
Location: 36.233195, -112.414602
This is a good view of Walthenburg Rapids and the Colorado River. The Tonto Trail skirts the edge of a cliff formed by Tapeats Sandstone here, making for excellent views.
Rac008 - Questionable water
Location: 36.226374, -112.416854
This is where the Tonto Trail crosses a small un-named side canyon. I found a tiny scummy pool here during a prolonged dry spell. But this water was very salty. It should not be relied upon. Although you might see water like this in this 18-mile stretch between the South Bass trail head and Toltec Beach, it may not help due to the bad quality of the water.
Rac009 - Garnet Canyon/End of Tonto Trail:
Location: 36.214547, -112.421245
This is where the Tonto Trail officially ends at Garnet Canyon. The trail descends to the bed of Garnet (where the waypoint was made), and there are several pools here. But again, the water is too salty to be of much use to hikers. Look for a footpath to continue heading west below the Tapeats Sandstone. This path is cairned and begins to slowly descend along a talus slope toward the Colorado River.
Rac011 - Elves Chasm
Location: 36.197472, -112.450325
This is the mouth of Royal Arch Creek, and the entrance to the grotto named Elves Chasm. To get to this spot, hikers must head west along a cairned path from Toltec Beach that follows the talus slope above the Colorado. It is a rough path and will take 1.5 hours to cover due to the up-and-down nature. I happened to catch a ride with a passing boat party, and enjoyed a cold beer courtesy of a generous captain. Ahhh!
Note: Camping is illegal at Elves Chasm, a popular stopping place for river parties. Waterfalls and pools in Elves Chasm, and good drinking water (unless people are swimming in the pools!).
Rac010 - Toltec Beach
Location: 36.200680, -112.432057
This is Toltec Beach, the first good water (at the Colorado River) since leaving the South Bass trailhead. Good camping here on sandy flat spots that are sometimes used by river parties. Hikers should leave their packs here and then head downstream toward Elves Chasm (the mouth of Royal Arch Creek), then return the same way.
Rac012 - Rappel/climb
Location: 36.196966, -112.436206
This is the 20-foot cliff that must be surmounted (or rappeled if coming down here). To reach this spot, hikers must leave Toltec Beach and ascend the sandy trail that begins immediately to the south. This trail ascends steeply toward the
prominent travertine cliff above the Colorado River and leads to the climbing spot. When I reached this cliff, there was a knotted rope anchored in place. It made climbing up a snap, as it worked well as a hand line and I didn't need a climbing harness. Although one wouldn't want to depend on this rope always being there or in safe condition, I believe a good climber could surmount the cliff without it, and then rig a rope for any less-experienced members of the party.
If one were coming down this cliff instead of going up, it would make it a sure thing to rig a safe rappel, but it's also scarier since you would be looking down at the drop and overhanging rock. By going up rather than down the cliff, you can see all the holds and it's much less intimidating. Note that the Park Service recommends doing this loop clockwise so that the rappel can be rigged from above, thus eliminating the worry of being able to climb up the small cliff. Once on top of the cliff, look for the cairned route that leads to the Tonto Platform where the route begins to head west toward Royal Arch Creek.
It's not necessary to carry a huge amount of water away from the river, as there is a spring in Royal Arch Creek that I reached in about 5 hours from Toltec Beach.
Rac013 - Route turns toward Royal Arch Creek from Tonto platform
Location: 36.190121, -112.453258
This is where the route begins to head toward Royal Arch Creek, and away from Grand Canyon.
Rac014 - Route into Royal Arch Creek from the Tonto.
Location: 36.184282, -112.451022
This is the steep route that allows access into Royal Arch Creek from the Tonto platform. Look for cairns to show you the way.
Rac015 - Royal Arch
Location: 36.191714, -112.453472
This is Royal Arch, the largest natural bridge in Grand Canyon. Great camping and good water, a special place for those who love beauty and stillness.
Rac016 - Spring in Royal Arch Creek
Location: 36.188936, -112.454923
This is the best water to be had on the entire loop. Drink straight from the source - I did, without ill effects.
Rac018 - Reliable pot hole water and good camping
Location: 36.164672, -112.443932
This spot offers a great place to camp for the last night. Reliable water in pot holes, flat spots for camping and nice views make it a natural rest stop.
elias-butler-bass-trailhead.jpg
Location: 36.182225, -112.371769
South Bass trail head.
elias-butler-junction.jpg
Location: 36.194140, -112.369366
This is where you either keep going north on the South Bass Trail, or turn west to go toward Royal Arch.
elias-butler-bass-canyon-esplanade.jpg
Location: 36.201897, -112.370567
This is where the South Bass Trail begins descending the Supai Formation.
Location: 36.232366, -112.356491
Hiking west on the Tonto Trail near Tyndall Dome. Great views!
elias-butler-copper-canyon.jpg
Location: 36.227381, -112.374516
This is the bottom of Copper Canyon where the Tonto Trail crosses it.
elias-butler-walthenberg view.jpg
Location: 36.232643, -112.410908
A good view of Walthenburg Rapids and the Colorado River.
elias-butler-brackish pool.jpg
Location: 36.225442, -112.413311
I found a tiny scummy pool here during a prolonged dry spell. But this water was very salty.
elias-butler-toltec.jpg
Location: 36.199958, -112.428589
This is Toltec Beach, the first good water (at the Colorado River) since leaving the South Bass trail head.
elias-butler-cliff-climbing.jpg
Location: 36.196633, -112.434039
This is the 20-foot cliff that must be surmounted (or rappelled if coming down here).
elias-butler-elves-chasm.jpg
Location: 36.196772, -112.449811
This is the mouth of Royal Arch Creek, and the grotto named Elves Chasm. These boaters are enjoying a swim in a pool below a waterfall.
rac-from-tonto.jpg
Location: 36.190676, -112.451527
This is where the route begins to head toward Royal Arch Creek, and away from Grand Canyon.
elias-butler-royal arch.jpg
Location: 36.192581, -112.452428
Royal Arch, named by Harvey Butchart following its discovery in 1959.
elias-butler-spring.jpg
Location: 36.189811, -112.456162
Reliable spring in Royal Arch Creek.
elias-butler-route-into-rac-tonto.jpg
Location: 36.184303, -112.449510
This is the steep route that allows access into Royal Arch Creek from the Tonto platform.
elias-butler-pot hole.jpg
Location: 36.164384, -112.442558
One of several pot holes that contained water during a prolonged dry spell.
elias-butler-garnet canyon.jpg
Location: 36.215748, -112.414341
This is where the Tonto Trail officially ends at Garnet Canyon.
elias-butler-tonto-tent.jpg
Location: 36.228766, -112.344990
Good campsite on the Tonto platform. That's Tyndall Dome and the Orion constellation looming above.
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