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So you crave iconic Sierra Nevada scenery? Judging from the crowds on the Pacific Crest and John Muir Trails, you're not alone. But you very well could be in Sequoia National Park's often-empty backcountry on the rugged 71-mile High Sierra Trail (not to be confused with the equally desolate 195-mile Sierra High Route from Kings Canyon to Twin Lakes).
Starting at 6,700 ft. on the southern fringe of the Giant Forest, you'll hike through heaven-kissing groves of giant sequoias. A week of climbing through scoured domes and fins reminiscent Yosemite's Cathedral Range later, you'll stand atop the hike's 14,495-foot exclamation point: Mt. Whitney.
The Route Head out from Crescent Meadow (near the park's Lodgepole Visitor Center) through dense stands of sequoia and sugar pine, whose football-size cones litter the path. Savor this stretch, since it's the only one on the HST where these massive conifers flourish. Later, you'll reach Eagle View, a lookout over a 1,000-foot gorge cradling the Middle Fork Kaweah River. After traversing seven major creeks coursing down the granite ledges of Alta Bluffs, make camp among the pines at Bearpaw Meadow.
Over the next few days, you'll whack through chest-high bracken ferns, grind up the Precipice Bench to the snow-ringed rock gardens of Kaweah Gap (10,700 feet), cross the Great Western Divide, climb the Chagoopa Plateau, and drop into the deep, U-shaped trough of Kern Canyon. Around day 5, you'll join the JMT for the ascent to Guitar Lake and campsites below Whitney. Get a predawn start for the summit march. You'll rejoin the masses atop Whitney, but the vantage from the rooftop of the Southern Sierra deserves an awestruck assembly.
Season Late summer, from the last week in July to early September, is idyllic. Afternoon thunderstorms aren't as likely, and temperatures stay between 40 and 70-degree F. Want to see flaming red Indian paintbrush or bright pink shooting star wildflowers? Go in early July, when blooms carpet the entire meadow in the Big Arroyo.
Logistics Slot a week for the one-way trip, or two for a 142-mile yo-yo. The closest airport with car rentals is in Fresno. Wilder House Shuttle (wilderhouse.com) will you up at Whitney Portal and drive you anywhere for @1 per mile. Book at least a month in advance.
Gear Bearproof canisters are a must. Get the bomber BearVault (it won our 2004 Editors' Choice award), or rent others at the Lodgepole or Foothills Visitors Centers. For creek crossings, pack water shoes and trekking poles. No matter what, don't forget bug dope: Skeeters can be heinous in the dank confines of Kern Canyon.
Permits Reserve $15 permits through the park's wilderness office (nps.gov/seki/planyourvisit/wilderness.htm) no later than 2 weeks before your trip.
Signs of Life California mule deer and yellow-bellied marmots abound. Around Whitney, spot rosy finches and purple sky pilots.
Homework Don't hit the trail without Tom Harrison's Mt. Whitney High County map or without consulting the interactive trip planner at backpacker.com/hikes.
-Andrew Matranga
TO TRAILHEAD: TO TRAILHEAD: Go E on Highway 198 to park entrance. Head to Lodgepole Visitor Center for backcountry permit, then backtrack to Crescent Meadows to begin.
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HST01
| Dist: 50.97 mi |
Points: 1454 |
Calories: none |
| Time: none |
Speed: 0.0 mph |
Pace: 0:00 / mi |
High Sierra Trail
HST001
Location: 36.554699°, -118.748848°
Crescent Meadows Trailhead leaves from the southeast fringe of the Giant Forest and winds through shady, well-watered terrain covered with dense forests of red and white fir, sugar pines, and occasional giant sequoias.
HST002
Location: 36.553432°, -118.748047°
R onto High Sierra Trail
HST003
Location: 36.554298°, -118.741951°
R @ 3-way; wrap around a south-facing slope at Eagle View and scope Moro Rock to the W and down the Middle Fork of the Kaweah River; scanning E, the glaciated spires, domes and peaks of the Great Western Divide and Kaweah Gap stand ahead
HST004
Location: 36.570465°, -118.721619°
R @ Y, continue ENE along the steep slopes and bluffs of the south side of Alta Meadow and Alta Peak.
HST005
Location: 36.572399°, -118.684120°
Two-tent campsite and bear locker along the streaming waterfalls of Mehrten Creek
HST006
Location: 36.569633°, -118.679382°
Keep R @ Y to Bearpaw Meadow; pass two forks of Nine Mile Creek and descend to Buck Canyon, well-known for floods, avalanches and rockslides. The Buck Creek crossing may be hazardous early in the summer. Check on conditions when you pick up your permit.
HST007
Location: 36.567883°, -118.628220°
Begin stiff ascent up switchbacks
HST008
Location: 36.566982°, -118.624214°
L @ Y to Bearpaw Meadow High Sierra Camp
HST009
Location: 36.565533°, -118.621063°
Take R to tent camping
HST010
Location: 36.564800°, -118.623680°
Backpacker's campsites at Bearpaw Meadow. Bear boxes at each site. Fire ring. Watch for fearless mule deer. Will rifle through an open pack and lick salt from the backpanel
HST011
Location: 36.565384°, -118.620949°
Descend on High Sierra Trail from A-frame Ranger Station; sweet overlook of Valhalla near High Sierra Lodge
HST012
Location: 36.572235°, -118.598930°
Cross bridge and go R @ T
HST013
Location: 36.565681°, -118.586884°
Wet crossing of Hamilton River just above lower Hamilton Falls; climb switchbacks past Lower Hamilton Lake
HST014
Location: 36.564152°, -118.578102°
Hamilton Lake below stream-laced Precipice Bench and beneath the Angel Wings, a sheer granite wall to N; good camping, pit toilet, bear lockers, no fires; to continue to Kaweah Gap, cross stream and head up switchbacks
HST017
Location: 36.552116°, -118.560799°
Upper Precipice Lake tucked below the glacier-laden north wall of Eagle Scout Peak; trail enters alpine zone of snowfields, ponds and meadows and might be faint or snowed over.
HST018
Location: 36.557468°, -118.551231°
Kaweah Gap (10,700 ft.) on the Great Western Divide; Mt. Stewart, named after founder of Sequoia NP, to N; to continue descend in to Nine Lakes Basin of the Big Arroyo
HST019
Location: 36.533501°, -118.541817°
Knee-deep crossing of Arroyo Creek
HST020
Location: 36.519966°, -118.531631°
L @ Y; Big Arroyo Junction campsites and bear locker; sustained ridgeline climb through lodgepoles and towering mountain hemlocks
HST021
Location: 36.493416°, -118.471970°
R @ Y for more scenic, south High Sierra Trail section along the lip of the Chagoopa Plateau; left-hand trail follows a more direct route across the Chagoopa Plateau, rejoining the Moraine Lake Trail at Sky Parlor Meadow
HST022
Location: 36.481133°, -118.465019°
(pictures) Grand overlook of the Big Arroyo and Chagoopa Plateau, spot Moraine Lake perched below on the plateau's edge.
HST023
Location: 36.462757°, -118.454552°
Moraine Lake: bear locker and fire rings. About six different campsites to choose from
HST025
Location: 36.463917°, -118.436081°
R @ T
HST028
Location: 36.456299°, -118.413300°
L @ T to Kern Hot Springs through marshy forest of Jeffrey pine and incense-cedar
HST030
Location: 36.480068°, -118.405220°
Small campsite along Kern River with bear locker
HST032
Location: 36.577232°, -118.413666°
Large campsite at Junction Meadow. Bear locker and multiple fire rings
HST033
Location: 36.578617°, -118.414116°
R @ 3-way and ascend Wallace Creek to JMT and Mt. Whitney
HST034
Location: 36.592018°, -118.416664°
R @ T to Mt. Whitney up Wallace Creek; leave Jeffrey pine stands and cross a steep, rocky slope covered with manzanita and currant. The climb out of the Kern Trench offers impressive views of the canyon to the S and W to the Kaweah Peaks.
HST035
Location: 36.594284°, -118.371231°
R @ T toward Crabtree; cross creek
HST036
Location: 36.593800°, -118.370796°
Wallace Creek Campsite, bear locker
HST037
Location: 36.558998°, -118.361870°
L @ 3-way
HST038
Location: 36.564732°, -118.350601°
Take R to camp at Crabtree, or continue L toward Whitney Zone; pack out human waste in WAG chemical bags, provided in box at trail junction
HST039
Location: 36.564400°, -118.348015°
Bear locker near Ranger Station
HST040
Location: 36.567333°, -118.331070°
Timberline Lake, no camping or stock
HST041
Location: 36.571949°, -118.312653°
Guitar Lake: no fires. Bear can required by law. Watch for wily marmots. If camped over, head to Hitchcock Lakes, stocked with Golden Trout. Last water source before the summit, so top off bladders for the climb.
HST042
Location: 36.560585°, -118.293137°
Reach Trail Crest and drop packs for the final push to The Big Hill; pass Mt. Muir and "windows" that drop for thousands of feet and give big views E toward the Owens Valley; spot purple sky pilots that cling to the rocky soil and eek out an existence at 14,000 feet.
HST043
Location: 36.578602°, -118.292030°
Mount Whitney (14,505 ft): highest point in the Lower 48. See the Pacific Crest, Great Western Divide, and the Panamints and Death Valley across the Owens Valley. Sign the summit register and either head down to Whitney Portal or retrace route to Giant Forest
Local Traffic
Location: 36.542992°, -118.402176°
The tell-tale signs of the California black bear. ©Andrew Matranga
Chagoopa Falls
Location: 36.469013°, -118.410484°
Spilling off the plateau in a tumult, Chagoopa Falls echoes throughout the canyon. ©Andrew Matranga
Kern Hot Springs
Location: 36.477951°, -118.405296°
Welcome relief for tired feet found here in a bathtub of poured-concrete. Fill the bucket with cool river water to make it comfy, as the water from the spring is 115 degree F. The tub is only a few feet from the cold, rushing Kern River, and runoff from the tub mixes with river water to create a warm pool, allowing you the choice of temperatures for soaking. ©Andrew Matranga
Sky above the Whitney Zone
Location: 36.573238°, -118.317017°
Thin "mackerel" bands of altocumulus undulatus formations paint the sky above Mount Whitney. ©Andrew Matranga
Mt Hitchcock
Location: 36.572403°, -118.312622°
Reflection of Mt. Hitchcock in Guitar Lake. ©Andrew Matranga
Creek Crossing
Location: 36.551838°, -118.403427°
Long, wet crossing at intersection with Whitney Creek. ©Andrew Matranga
Kern Canyon
Location: 36.457302°, -118.414772°
Open, dust-filled switchbacks provided long-range views into the green V-shaped trough of the Kern River. ©David Taus
Sierra Mirror
Location: 36.462132°, -118.454376°
The crystal blues of Moraine Lake reflect the Great Western Divide. ©Andrew Matranga
Up the Big Arroyo
Location: 36.480709°, -118.464317°
Light streams through the large, U-shaped trench of the Big Arroyo. ©Andrew Matranga
Chagoopa Plateau
Location: 36.480976°, -118.464317°
Moraine Lake rests atop the steep slopes of the Chagoopa Plateau, deep in the heart of Sequoia's backcountry. ©Andrew Matranga
Storm clouds over Precipice Lake
Location: 36.552521°, -118.559059°
Snow and ice often remains in these high-alpine lakes all summer. Note the distinct outline of the Angel Wings on the rock face behind the lake. ©David Taus
Final Destination
Location: 36.473888°, -118.424187°
In an open meadow, views to the east show the final destination: Mount Whitney. ©Andrew Matranga
Sky Parlor Meadow
Location: 36.458912°, -118.444984°
Sky Parlor Meadow backdropped by Mt. Kaweah. This stretch of trail can be dry, so top off here along Funston Creek. ©Andrew Matranga
Guitar Lake
Location: 36.570789°, -118.311340°
Spot the head and body of the instrument? ©Andrew Matranga
Nine Lakes Basin
Location: 36.548809°, -118.546028°
Looking at the Kaweah Peaks and stream-filled meadows of the Big Arroyo from the edge of Nine Lakes Basin. ©Andrew Matranga
Angel Wings
Location: 36.566044°, -118.586403°
Hamilton Creek plunges off a lip below the Angel Wings of Valhalla. ©Andrew Matranga
Valhalla Section
Location: 36.566181°, -118.588203°
Views downcanyon of the Middle Fork of the Kaweah River and a Tolkienesque Middle-earth landscape filled with fin-shaped granite domes and tumbling rivers. ©Andrew Matranga
Sky Pilots
Location: 36.573460°, -118.291588°
These hardy, but rare, wildfowers eek out an existence at 14,000 ft. ©Andrew Matranga
Giant Sequoia
Location: 36.553627°, -118.746193°
Also known as the Sierra Redwood, these trees grow for thousands of years and reach heights hundreds of feet tall. ©David Taus
Among the Big Trees
Location: 36.553459°, -118.746414°
Giant Sequoia is the world's largest tree in terms of total volume. ©Andrew Matranga
Mount Whitney Summit
Location: 36.578465°, -118.291817°
The view from atop the Lower 48. ©Andrew Matranga
Whitney Hut
Location: 36.578243°, -118.291977°
The Mount Whitney Hut and was built in 1909 as a station for meteorological observations and is now a National Historic Landmark. The metal roof of this hut attracts lightning which can be conducted through the building to individuals inside. Do not seek shelter here during a storm. It is unsafe to be anywhere on top of the mountain or any exposed high place during a thunderstorm.©Andrew Matranga
A Sign
Location: 36.578133°, -118.292145°
The terminus of the High Sierra and John Muir Trails. ©Andrew Matranga
Window to the east
Location: 36.572456°, -118.291649°
On the summit trail, large window-like openings provide dramatic views of the sheer dropoff on Whitney's eastern face and into the Owens Valley. ©Andrew Matranga
Postcard Views
Location: 36.564083°, -118.352417°
An open glance at Mount Whitney from the John Muir Trail near Crabtree Meadow. ©Andrew Matranga
Hitchcock Lakes
Location: 36.565002°, -118.292206°
Mt. Hitchcock stands in front of the Great Western Divide in the distance. ©Andrew Matranga
Jagged Ridge
Location: 36.566895°, -118.292763°
The scree piles of Whitney's south slope form precipitous, toothy peaks. ©Andrew Matranga
Moro Rock
Location: 36.552818°, -118.738380°
©David Taus
Bearpaw High Sierra Camp
Location: 36.565350°, -118.621208°
Bearpaw High Sierra Camp, a simple tent hotel run by the park concessionaire (reservations required) ©David Taus
Valhalla
Location: 36.567707°, -118.594719°
Granite-sculpted domes in the upper River Valley. ©David Taus
Traversing the snowfields
Location: 36.555801°, -118.563202°
Slow and steady over the snow near Lower Precipice Lake. ©David Taus
Hamilton Lake
Location: 36.563961°, -118.578362°
Andrew Matranga pauses at Upper Hamilton Lake and admires its stream-laced headwall. ©David Taus
Hamilton Creek
Location: 36.565071°, -118.586403°
Noisy cascades spill from Lower Hamilton Lake. ©David Taus
Angel Wings
Location: 36.564934°, -118.587372°
The sheer granite walls of Valhalla produce celestial inspiration. ©David Taus
Tumble-down Spires
Location: 36.570290°, -118.292206°
The ridgeline trail to Whitney travels beneath Keeler Needle's precariously stacked boulders and talus piles. ©David Taus
Popular Spot
Location: 36.578522°, -118.291870°
On summer days, the summit is crowded with day hikers and JMT'ers signing the summit register. ©David Taus
Whitney Basin
Location: 36.571400°, -118.291870°
View W over the moonscape of the Whitney Basin: Guitar Lake in the center, Hitchcock Lakes to the left, and the Great Western Divide in the background. ©David Taus
Break time
Location: 36.556232°, -118.552498°
Nearing Kaweah Gap, Andrew Matranga pauses at a snow-ringed tarn above Upper Precipice Lake. The trail was covered in snow for most of the section nearing the pass. ©David Taus
The Big Hill at Dawn
Location: 36.573071°, -118.315735°
Sun flecks the serrated west face of continental America's tallest peak. ©David Taus
Trail Crest
Location: 36.560387°, -118.292984°
A virtual gear store at the turnoff to the summit. ©David Taus
Fast, deep crossing
Location: 36.590172°, -118.387962°
Andrew Matranga faces upstream, with hip belt unbuckled, in order to safely traverse the torrents of Wright Creek tumbling from the cliff above. © David Taus
Approaching Kaweah Gap
Location: 36.556889°, -118.551872°
Dave Taus skirts a high-alpine tarn cleaving its snow banks. ©Andrew Matranga
Hamilton Gorge Tunnel
Location: 36.565903°, -118.571983°
Tunnel along sheer-walled chute known as Hamilton Gorge. In 1932, Park Service engineers built a steel suspension bridge spanning the Gorge, but in the winter of 1937 it was swept away by an avalanche. In the summer of 1938, the Civilian Conservation Corps blasted a tunnel. ©Andrew Matranga
Great Western Divide
Location: 36.562160°, -118.724792°
©Andrew Matranga
Mt. Kaweah
Location: 36.492882°, -118.471001°
On the upper plains of the Chagoopa Plateau, the High Sierra Trail forks into two sections. ©Andrew Matranga
Silent Pathways
Location: 36.539833°, -118.543953°
This section of the High Sierra Trail featured next-to-no people and meadow after meadow of wildflower pockets. ©Andrew Matranga
View Down the Big Arroyo
Location: 36.543545°, -118.545685°
Peaks of the Great Western Divide and wildflower meadows. ©Andrew Matranga
Eagle View
Location: 36.553448°, -118.738647°
Turning the corner at Eagle View, the Great Western Divide comes into full view. ©Andrew Matranga
Landscape Architecture
Location: 36.550232°, -118.545662°
A broad valley that harkens to its glacial past. ©Andrew Matranga
Log Crossing
Location: 36.549866°, -118.545097°
Dave Taus carefully navigates a small stream passage in the Big Arroyo. ©Andrew Matranga
Overlook of River Valley
Location: 36.554966°, -118.734711°
Dave Taus scans the depths of the Middle Fork Kaweah River Valley. ©Andrew Matranga
Chasing shadows above the Whitney Zone
Location: 36.561222°, -118.296371°
Dave Taus stands in silhouette as early-morning sun fails to reach Whitney's west face. ©Andrew Matranga
Nine Lakes Basin
Location: 36.550274°, -118.544861°
Emerald carpets unfold below Nine Lakes Basin. ©Andrew Matranga
Descent into the Big Arroyo
Location: 36.549694°, -118.545853°
With the Kaweah Ridge as a backdrop, Dave Taus hikes through the verdant meadows of the upper Big Arroyo. ©Andrew Matranga
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